Okay. I'm attempting a mini dress diary here. The trouble is that I get going along with the sewing and forget to take photos. I've decided I am ready to tackle a "real" Renaissance gown but the first step is to have the correct underpinnings so that means ..... a corset! I have a smaller frame with huge boobs (DDD) so I cut my pattern with size 12 shoulders and size 18 bust and waist. You know it kills me to type size 18! I hate that patterns are different from ready to wear where I wear a 12-14 which I have a hard enough time accepting. Anyway... Here's the pattern laid out on the cotton twill fabric.
The really tedious part was marking all of the boing lines using tracing paper and a wheel. (Another first for me.)
At this point I've sewn the back-side seams which was a real PITA because the two pieces are very different lengths. The instructions said to stay stich, sew the seam, then clip the curves. It finally dawned on me that I needed to clip to the stay stitching before sewing the seam to allow me to stretch the shorter piece to match the longer piece. I still ended up with some ripples in the seam but it'll do. You can see that the Margo Anderson pattern is cut to include a side seam, even though that likely wasn't done in period, for ease of fitting. That's a very good thing because I ended up taking in quite a bit at the bust. More than FIVE inches!
This photo shows the boning a little better. I used plastic cable ties for boning. I originally purchased more rigid ties but they were too wide for the channels and I didn't want to hassle with remarking them so I ended up with narrower less rigid boning. I am still considering opening the binding back up at the top and doubling up the boning in the center front so that the boned tab will keep a straight line instead of curving out at the bottom.
The good news is that the corset subtracts four inches from my bust but the bad news is that it adds and inch to my waist. Today I am trying to fit the muslin for the bodice of the gown and it looks like I need a size 14 bust and a *gasp* size 20 waist!